produced by Black Chalk

Not so long ago if you were going to compliment English sparkling wine you’d probably feel compelled to soften that compliment with “actually”, or similar. A few years on, Britain’s vineyards have proved themselves as prestigious as those in Champagne - the standard against which all sparkling wine is compared. Increasing temperatures and high tech machinery have made Britain one of the most exciting modern wine regions.

Black Chalk, based in the British sub-region of Hampshire, is even better placed to boast amazing sparkling wines thanks to Hampshire’s soil content - it has more chalk under the soil than any other British sub-region. Chalk soil holds moisture, ie water - a necessary element for vine growing - but it also allows excess moisture to drain so vines are not overly saturated. The impact chalk ultimately has on the grape is that it’s able to retain acidity and develop a more concentrated flavour (thanks to root exploration).

Another thing UK winemaking has on its side is the modern machinery. British winemakers can (often) afford to take their grapes from vineyard to bottle quickly, maintaining cool temperatures (which lock in things like acidity and fresh flavours). While small, Black Chalk has been able to build a beautifully modern winery to do just that and the small team led by Jacob Leadley and Zoë Driver see machinery - such as the state of the art grape press from Coquard - as an essential part of managing each vintage quickly.

Black Chalk was not the first winery Jacob and Zoë have worked on together - the pair met at Hattingley which is a stones throw away. It was here that Zoë was selected out of 200 candidates to be their first winemaking apprentice and Jacob found work after retraining as a winemaker at Plumpton College (he previously worked in finance but felt the vines calling after several years in The City). The pair now work at the winery and grow plantings of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir Précoce across four vineyards.

Their flagship wine, simply called Classic, is a traditional method sparkling using the three Champagne varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir & Meunier) - fitting, given such a idyllic location for the style. Oak barrels and time on the lees give the freshness of the grapes added complexity through the addition of more developed fruits and biscuity notes. It’s a harmonious balance that lets the quality of Hampshire’s soils speak for itself. Unlike most well-known Champagne houses, Black Chalk have decided to only produce vintage wines (our tasting was the 2018 vintage - and if you were in Britain that year you’ll remember how a good vintage it was!) and is allowed to age in bottle for a couple of years with the intention that it’s ready to drink on release.

Coming to market a little quicker is the Dancer In Pink, a pale and fruity Rosé using Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir Précoce and Pinot Gris. Released for the first time in 2020, this is the first still that the vineyard have produced and was so well received it was difficult to find a bottle! At the time of visiting Black Chalk we were however able to procure a bottle of the Dancer In Pink 2021: a fruity and dry bottle with flavours of strawberry, pomegranate & blossom, well-chilled it would accompany any sun-filled occasion very nicely.

Wild Rosé is another sparkling regular at Black Chalk, using the three Champagne grapes with Meunier taking the lead, but unfortunately the 2018 is sold out and it could be a little bit of a wait until the next vintage is released and finally give that one a try. Additionally, Jacob and Zoë are experimenting with Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs (with a prized 777 clone of Pinot Noir to be used) and more still wines.

The name ‘Black Chalk’ is inspired by The Old Masters of the art world who used black chalk to sketch their masterpieces. Early on in its journey (which started in 2015) Black Chalk is well on its way to becoming a permanent fixture of British wine with the paintwork (winemaking) allowing room for the chalk soil to be expressed through the grapes produced.

Plantings in Black Chalk’s River Vineyard, opposite the winery.

The Black Chalk Winery where grapes are pressed, matured and bottled for release.

The terrace outside of Black Chalk’s Tasting Room.

Plantings are sloped in the River Vineyard purchased by Black Chalk Winery. This aids the chalk soils in draining water to prevent growing the vines, additionally frost sinks to the bottom of the vineyard protecting vines at the top of the hill from frost damage.

Chardonnay plantings in the River Vineyard, Black Chalk

Some ripened grapes next tp grapes still undergoing veraison.

Hampshire is the British county with the most chalk content in its soils.

Rows of Chardonnay vines in the River Vineyard, Black Chalk.

Black Chalk boasts plantings of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir Précoce using a variety of clones across its four vineyards.

The River Vineyard is located close to the banks of the River Test, making it idyllic for a visit.

For more on British vineyards read produced by Chapel Down and produced by Tillingham. Otherwise, you can check out ‘Vineyards of Britain’ in our book club selects to find more recommendations for English & Welsh Vineyards/Wineries.